It's vital to sterilize the shears before pruning to prevent pathogens from hitching a ride directly to your plant. The place where the plant has been pruned can be vulnerable to diseases or infections until it heals. Sharp shears are critical to making clean, swift snips that can heal quickly and don't cause undue damage to the plant. Once your pruning shears are sanitized and sharpened, you're ready to begin. According to Robert Connell Clarke, a cannabis cultivation expert, trimming the central stalk represents one of the most common pruning techniques.
The tip of the central stalk is removed when the plant has reached its desired length. This removal encourages a bushy, laterally spreading plant, rather than a tall, stringy specimen. Beneath the point where the central stalk has been removed, axial branches will form and grow two new limbs that ultimately spread outwards. This practice, also known as topping , is transformative because it alters the plant's growth trajectory. Pruning the larger branches and leaves promotes instant airflow by creating space.
It also allows light to reach more of the plant. Make the cuts as clean and as close to the stem as possible, and at a degree angle.
Once the larger branches have been pruned, it's easier to shift attention to the smaller details. Branches growing in the middle of the plant are not as resilient as those at the top. Spend some time pruning to create space around the middle. Very small limbs or branches grow around the lower parts of the plant and tend to be atrophied. The removal of entire limbs allows the plant to channel nutrition into the upper stems, leaves, and buds.
More air circulates in the lower reaches of the plant, minimizing the risk of mold when growing indoors. Most importantly, energy and growth hormones are directed upwards towards the buds most likely to thrive.
This method is colloquially referred to as the lollipop technique or lollipopping. The plant takes on a lollipop appearance: bushy at the top with skinny and sparse foliage toward the bottom. Remove any yellow, brown, or diseased-looking tissue.
Prune any leaves that have branches shooting from their base. Snip any buds heavily shaded by the canopy branches. The unfavorable location of these buds means they will not have access to adequate light and may have nutrient deficiencies. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Things You'll Need. Related Articles.
Article Summary. Part 1. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Use sharp scissors or garden shears. Make sure the scissors or garden shears are very sharp, as dull shears can damage the plants.
If you notice any dirt on the shears, soak them in water with a teaspoon of bleach and then wipe them dry. A clean tool will ensure your plants are not exposed to bacteria or pests when you prune them. If you are worried about scratching your hands while you prune, wear gardening gloves. Prune the plants at the beginning of their growing season.
If you have houseplants that do not flower, prune them in late winter. For houseplants with flowers or blooms, wait until they have bloomed before you prune them. Remove dead leaves and limbs at a 45 degree angle. Look for any leaves or limbs on the plant that are brown or discolored. They may also appear limp or dry. Use the shears to cut them off just below the brown or dead area at a 45 degree angle. This will ensure you leave as much of the healthy foliage on the plant as possible.
If a large section of the leafy area appears dead, you can cut off the entire branch. Leave the main stem intact and remove branches shooting off of the stem at a 45 degree angle.
Trim off any dead flowers. If you have houseplants that are flowering, make sure you check them over for any dead flowers and remove them. The flowers may appear brown, discolored, and limp. They may also feel dry to the touch. Part 2. Prune back half of the longest branches on the plant. Use the shears to cut them back about a third of their length. Trim the branches off at a 45 degree angle. Do not cut off any nodules on the plants as you prune, which are new buds that have not bloomed or opened yet.
Remove leggy stems. Check the plant for any stems that are unusually long. They may appear loose or straggling, falling off different areas of the plant. Pruning leggy stems will help the plant to grow in a fuller, more even pattern.
Use the shears to cut the leggy stems back to one third their length, cutting at a 45 degree angle. Pinch off the stems. If you have soft-stemmed houseplants like coleus, heartleaf philodendron, and English ivy, make sure you pinch them regularly.
Use your thumb and forefinger to remove the tip of a stem. Pinch above the node, which is the growing point where the leaf is attached to the plant. It also helps to prevent the growth of leggy stems.
Do not over prune the plant, as this can make it difficult for it to grow properly. Wait a few weeks to one month to prune the plants again.
If you are in doubt, under prune the plant and then reevaluate it a few weeks later. However, it involves a little more work. Indoor vines should be encouraged to grow along a support with any wandering stems pruned back.
With vines, you might have to do a substantial pruning in the spring or summer to cut them back to a manageable form. Many vines are notoriously rampant growers when they're healthy. Some houseplants rarely need pruning, and others should never be pruned at all. Palms and Norfolk Island pines both form a terminal dominant bud but do not possess latent buds. That means removing the dominant bud will kill the plant, so it's best to let these species be.
Similarly, many varieties of orchids cannot be pruned beyond removing dead flower spikes. Do so at the point where the spike comes out of the leaves, and hopefully you'll see blooms again after several months.
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