Neglecting to add a layer of primer will more than likely end up with a sheen here and there. However, by simply adding a layer of primer, the whole surface will have the same porosity level and will soak up the paint at an even rate. The result is a gorgeous surface. Instead of trying to save both time and money by skipping the primer, paint your drywall right. So, how does primer specifically work? The main chemical in primer is polyvinyl acetate PVA.
Once you apply primer, the PVA in the substance goes to work by sealing all of the porous surfaces in the drywall mudding and the wall paper while also making them more receptive to fresh paint as well. PVA also makes primer stick to new drywall better than paint. Furthermore, paint sticks to primer much better than it does to the drywall itself. This allows the painter to build a finish in two coats or less.
Brad, I have wood fir outdoor steps that primed and painted 1. They have partial sun exposure. Should I use the Royal again or is there something better I only need 1 qt? Thank you. I cannot remember if is for exterior, but if it is, yes, go for it. I would use Benjamin Moores Block Ou t an oil-based exterior only primer.
But the main point is that the prep really determines how long the job will last: you should not be out there in less than 5 years, unless you have very high traffic and intense sun, snow, etc. Scrape the loose paint very well: on our site is info on how and why and on the scrapers and how to file them a video of me sharpening.. Key point: remove loose paint, create bonding with primer and use the best deck paint you can afford.
Good luck, b. Same reply! Do I have to paint a topcoat of latex paint or can I leave it as is? It has a whitewashed look to it as I applied the primer with a brush. Yes, I know that look. Well, you could of course if you like it, but just know that it will take a beating: handprints cannot be washed etc.
Next primer would not need to be so extreme… just Kilz Original or such. Hi, Brad! Thanks for providing such an informative posting! I did have to apply more than one coat of KILZ to completely eliminate the appearance of the water stains.
Do you have any idea where I went wrong? Are there any steps that I can take so that the treated areas are not noticeably different in appearance? I can provide a photo if that will help. You probably did not need multiple coats, but no harm was done. Great that you have to original paint, but your problem is that this is my best guess that the old paint had faded.
Anyway, yes a photo will help somewhat and I can post for others to see, but my advice is to repaint with a new ceiling paint, or if you still have a lot of your paint, do the entire ceiling.
That will be fine. I love them both! I love your article, very helpful! In here u have mentioned sanding the primer, is this necessary if I am painting over stained but lightly sanded down kitchen cabinets? And also what grit of sandpaper should I use? Then do I wash or tack cloth them again before painting? Thank you! Yes indeed. Then wipe with damp cloth or tack cloth a couple of times. You should get no dust on your finger after the wipe down is dry.
Then you are all set. Have a look at the article about trim paint: I love the Advance from ben moore. Practice first with it, then you will see the magic: no brush strokes witha water-based paint. I am making a utility box cover with a birdhouse on top. Will this be a good process? Things get wet and the primer will degrade but very slowly. Why not do it all the way before you assemble?
Save your good paint. Good choice on primer btw. Hi, I am getting ready to paint over a orangey-red wall. You recommend a gray tinted primer. A big box store? Do it on my own somehow? Thanks, Stephanie. Yes, that primer is great for that.
Take it to a paint store: you might get a charge. Tell them a painter told you this. Key point! We had a room repainted four months ago. The painters used BIN Shellac on the doors, casing and trim since he believed it was oil before. Then he painted over that. Immediately after he was done with the priming did it all in a few hours , the room wreaked. And… ever since then, if the door and window are closed it has a chemical like odor that lingers.
The walls, doors… everything smells if you put your nose to it. Wonder if he still had Bin Shellac in his sprayer before he did some of the other work? Well, this is a rare problem. If he sprayed the Bin, there could have been a little clinging to the inside of the hose, but that would be a small amount … probably not your problem.
Here is my guess, and the bad news. You want the bad news first right? He may be lying to you. I cannot understand why these products, if he used them, would smell this long. Here is what I know some painters do: they will tell the customer that they are using a good product like Ben or S. Willimas, etc, then buy crap from some crappy store and fill the empty Ben or SW cans with it.
They arrive on the site with the bad paint in good cans. I have no idea that this happened, just saying it has. I heard this from paint store folks.
Earth to painters. To test if old paint is oil or latex is here. He should know this. Just be patient. If this is not enough info, write again. What does it smell like? Can you remove a sample and apply the test above? Did he leave you any cans? Put some on, let dry and do the test in that post.
Good luck, Brad ps, maybe speak with a lawyer if the problem is not rectified in a few months. Invite the lawyer to come see. I know that I need to seal the drywall paper before spackling these two holes; what would you say is the best drywall sealer to use in this situation? Just the basic drywall primer is fine. Use the butt end of your scraper and make it concave, so your spackle will leave a flat surface…otherwise, you get a bump.
Brad — Thanks a ton, good info — much appreciated. The painter left behind several cans of the products he used. I did a test and bought new sheet rock, primed it, let it dry, then painted it using the paint and primer he left behind.
No odor at all. The smell is like a sweet chemical smell. My doors and moldings were painted by the previous condo owner with oil-based paint. I want to use latex paint.
Not necessarily. Look at this site about trim paint to see how we use a 9-inch roller to go very very fast. Painting after wallpaper is removed is just like any other wall. THe key thing you need to do is wipe several times after the paper is visibly off. If you think you are done, mist the wall in a few test areas and run your hand over it. Any stickiness at all? Paint away. I would guess the mobile home walls are thin sheets of wood?
Or fake wood? IN any case, you need to make sure it does not flake off whatever the top coating is so use Prime Lock from Ben Moore. Link is here. Hi, Painting many 70 year old interior double hung windows with lots of wood muttons 8 over 8 windows! Fairly glossy. Would like to use Regal Select pearl dove white as top coat and current color is white.
I have some Stix and Ben Moore oil primer and fine buying others if a better choice. Should I use on the bare wood areas, Stix on the somewhat glossy areas, on everything, or something else?
Also should I use a liquid deglosser instead of sandpaper? Finally, is it important to lightly sand after the primer and after the first lates topcoat? Thanks so much! In reverse order, yes I sand between primer and top coats to knock off little particles.
But you must sand or de-gloss. If you have lead, read this and consider Lead Block. In any case, use the best respirator you can find, not just some mask. There is a test here. Better yet, strip it all! GOod luck, b. There is mildew on the walls but so far not on the ceilings. Where holes were punched in the walls, we can see they are drywall or look like drywall.
They are lightly textured. Failing to clean the surface prior to applying primer may compromise the adhesion of the primer to the surface — which could lead to peeling and blistering. Depending on how strong or bold the previous color is, it may be necessary to apply more than one coat of primer. However, it is not necessary to over apply the primer with so many coats. As long as the primer applies uniformly over the previous color, then one or two coats should be sufficient.
Again, it is not necessary to apply several coats of primer to try to get a perfect white finish. That is the job of the topcoat paint which has to be applied on top of the primer. Priming outside is just as important, if not more important, than priming inside. Exterior surfaces are typically exposed to the elements and are subject to expansion from heat and contraction from cold. This and the exposure to wind, rain, snow and even dust, dirt, pollution, sunlight UV may cause the paint to fail due to lack of adhesion to the surface.
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